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Fynbos Discussion Archive
Past discussion about growing fynbos and proteas,
water-wise gardening and conservation.
Discussion Archive Topics
Welcome to our discussion archive. The current threads of this discussion are running on our new forum at Current Discussion - this archive is no longer active, but still contains valuable information. We suggest you search through here before submitting a query to the new discussion or contacting finebushpeople.
Q: Leucospermum High Gold problems.Why? - Ricardo Silva, September 06, 2001
- My leucospermum high gold have a problem in the finished of the stem it is dries and it falls and the remaining portion of the stem still in good conditions.
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Q: rooibos or honeybush are seeds available? - Andy K, September 05, 2001
- I have a south african garden in coastal area of San Francisco,Ca USA. I would like to try and grow Rooibos(aspalanthus linearis) and or Honeybush Cyclopia intermedia or Cyclopia subternata. Are seeds available in small quantities for non commercial growing?
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Q: History and different types of proteas - megan, June 12, 2001
- Hi We would like to get a background on the different types of proteas that you can get and any extra background that you have on them
Thanks!
Megan
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Q: When to prune fruit trees? - Ramona Muthan, June 06, 2001
- I live in the Pretoria area where the winters can get pretty cold and all the trees are quite dry right now so I was wondering when I shoul actually prune the trees.
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r: Pruning fruit trees - julie, June 21, 2001
- Pruning of fruit trees is recommended for winter. The book I have recommends pruning hard by cutting the previous seasons growth back to within inches of its base. This you would do if you tree is 4 years or younger. As the tree grows older the pruning becomes less severe.
So now is the time.
Good-luck
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Q: explanation - Theresa, May 20, 2001
- can someone please explain the USDA zones to me - i have no idea what they mean.
Also any tips on growing Proteas in the South of England would be appreciated
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r: USDA Hardiness Zones - julie, May 23, 2001
- Dear Theresa
Here are the following way in which zones are described: eg.
Zone 6: -10 to 0 degrees F
-23 to -18 degress C
This means that if a plant is classified as being able to grow in Zone 6,it can tolerate temperatures down to -10 degrees F or -23 degrees C.
Hope this is useful.
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Q: Growing proteas in New York - Nicky, June 04, 2001
- Can somebody please advise me as to how to grow proteas successfully in new york - (ex South African)
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Q: Climate in New York - Julie, June 21, 2001
- Dear Nicky
What USDA zone does New York fall into- a description of your climate would help to decide which Proteas you could grow there.
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r: New York USDA Zone - julie, June 30, 2001
- Dear Nicky
I have found a map with the USDA zones on it and it seems you are Zone 6 - Proteas generally grow comfortably in USDA zone 8 - which doesn't get as cold as zone 6.
There are however a couple of exceptions to this rule - unfortunately, the only seeds I can get where the species is said to able to grow in Zone 6, is Protea Subvestita.
There are others which you may want to try - which although don't specifically say they can grow in zone 6 - they are listed as Frost tolerant:
Protea Repens
Protea Eximia
Protea Grandiceps
Protea Punctata
Protea Magnifica
Leucadendron Salignum
Leucadendron Eucalyptifolium
Leucadendron Salcifolium
Leucospermum Catherinae
Hope this is helpful.
Julie
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Q: portugal wich USDA zone? - eduardo, July 17, 2001
- Im from Portugal and I like to know wich is my correspondent USDA zone. I live in Oporto (north near the ocean)
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r: European USDA zones - Theresa, August 15, 2001
- i've found a map at:
http://www2.dicom.se/fuchsias/eurozoner.html
this supposedly shows the corresponding USDA zones for europe - apparently where i live (SE England is zone 8! so here's hoping!)
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Q: Does anyone knows a small cynaroides? - Silvia , March 26, 2001
- I´m trying to start a protea plantation and i´m searching for the best species for my area.
I heard about a small or short king protea. I has a funny name that i cant remember right now. Does anyone knows anything about this plant?
Please help me.
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r: Small Cynaroides - julie, March 29, 2001
- I don't know where you'd find this - but you could try Elsenerg - their e-mail address is: fynbos@igs5.agric.za
Good luck
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r: Climate in New York - Nicky, June 22, 2001
- the climate here ... below 0 in winter (snow) summers can be hot and humid ... (might be zone 5??)
Where do i look up the zones?
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Q: Where can I buy seeds and find info? - Tina, March 26, 2001
- I would like to grow Ericas in England but don't know where to find the seeds and how to get started. Any ideas? We only get a purple coloured heather here and I'm looking for some variation.
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r: Erica Seeds - julie, March 27, 2001
- You can order them from me - my e-mail is: juliemay@iafrica.com
Let me know what you are looking for and I can source them for you and also how much you'd like to spend and I'll let you know what the prices are.
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c: erica seeds - Ray, May 27, 2001
- Tina, I too am in england (NW) I have also been looking into growing protea's here, where in the UK are you, certain areas will not entertain them as it is lime soils. If you require any assistance i can be contacted.
Have propogated proteas in the past for pleasure and my day job unfortunately took precedence.
The email addy is genuine it is the local site for SA's over here. www.voetsek.co.uk
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r: Seeds of Ericas - Barry Sellers, April 09, 2002
- E-mail me and I can let you know
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Q: United State market - M. Catalina Barros M., March 19, 2001
- I need information about marketing, exportation and price to safari sunset in the United State market.
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r: Safari Sunset - julie, March 20, 2001
- You could probably get this info from our Protea Research Unit - try: fynbos@igs5.agric.za
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Q: USDA ZONE 8 - Antonio Pimenta _ from Portugal, June 13, 2001
- can someone please explain the USDA zones to me - i have no idea what they mean. what temperature has in the USDA zone 8?
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r: USAD ZONES - julie, June 20, 2001
- Dear Antonio
USDA Zones of hardiness are a guide to what you can grow where.eg.
USDA Zone 8: 10 to 20 degrees F/
-12 to -7 degress C
This means that if a plant is classified as being able to grow in Zone 8,it can tolerate temperatures down to 10 degrees F or -12 degrees C.
Hope this is useful.
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Q: What is the correct botanical term for the Fynbos - Jessica, February 16, 2001
- I have come across a variety of different terms for the Fynbos - such as 'smallest plant kingdom' and 'smallest floral kingdom' how should it really be described - is it a division? or is it a class?
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r: Fynbos?? - julie, March 29, 2001
- To my knowledge there is no botanical term for Fynbos-but it is rather a name given to the collection of vegatation of the south western Cape.
A definition given by Richard Cowling in his book on Ecology of Fynbos is: Fynbos is the dominant vegetation type, and contibutes most of the species to the flora, of the Cape Floristic Region.
Hope this helps a little in explaining what it is. Depending which book you read, there are a variety of different descriptions.
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Q: distilling buchu essential oil - Terry O Keeffe, February 22, 2001
- I am interested in marketing localy and overseas of Buchu essential oils plus other unique indigenous oils and products e.g. Honeybush and Roibos oils, teas etc.
1. Who regulates or controls the planting,harvesting and distilling?
2. What permits or documentation are required?
3. Can farmers, who have buchu on their properties,harvest and distill their own Buchu E.O.by using a mobile distillation unit?
4.Where can I purchase Agamosma Betulina?Most nursuries have other species,but not this most commonly used one.
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r: Buchu Regulating - julie, March 29, 2001
- Grassroots Natural Products should be able to help you with this - you can find them at:
gnp@iafrica.com
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Q: Buchu cultivation in Swartland - John A, March 14, 2001
- Have any attempts been made to grow buchu in the Swartland district, more specifically Malmesbury.
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r: Buchu in the Swartland - julie, March 29, 2001
- Cultivation of buchu is something which seems to be new to everyone, as until recently, the buchu that was being cut, was buchu growing naturally. Buchu is fairly sepcific as to where it chooses to grow naturally ie. at a certain altitude on south-west facing slopes. Hopefully, when it comes to cultivation, we'll be able to bend these rules a little. Grassroots Natural Products are at the forefront of establishing new plants either from seed or from cuttings (the latter hasn't been very succesful to date).
You could contact them for advice at : gnp@iafrica.com
Good luck
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c: Buchu in the Swartland - Don Baguley, April 04, 2002
- The Swartland area and specifically Malmesbury is too flat for the successful cultivation of Buchu especially because the flatness would make it unbearably hot.
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Q: Buchu climatic adaptation - Francois, April 17, 2002
- Best climatic conditions to grow buchu ?
Have anyone used plastic ?
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r: buchu climatic needs - nec, June 11, 2002
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r: buchu climatic needs - nec, June 11, 2002
- Buchu and more specifically A crenulata grow naturally on south eastern slopes with well drained soil, rich in humis. It is very sesitive to the amount of moisture present in the soil. It does not like strong sunlight,hence doing best on s-e slopes.
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r: agathosma - nec, June 11, 2002
- Agathosma is a genus of the family rutaceae which is a family of aromatic plants with oil glands on the underside of the leaf. There are aproximatly 150 speciese of agathosmas which all have unique aromas. They usually flower in umbels at the end of the stem, but some have the small flowers growing from the axillary buds.
The industrial Buchu's consist of A.betulina and A. crenulata which are feild or wild grown and harvested for there leaves.
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Q: Restio information - John, October 26, 2000
- I live in Cornwall in the uk and a few weeks ago when searching for some info about the restio family I came across this board and side tracked myself learning about buchu. The question I am now asking is where do I find out more about restios. We are growing about 25 varieties here in cornwall and they seem to be doing really well. I have been looking all over for more info on them. Kirstenbosch mention the family but that is about all other than their little booklet " Grow Restios " If anyone can help then I would be really glad to hear of any leads at all. They seem to be such wonderfull plants but I am wondering if they are so much of a weed in your part of the world that no one takes much notice of them. Thanks for taking the time to read this.
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Q: northern vs. southern hemispheres - Desann Wilson, January 05, 2001
- Please tell me why is it that the southern hemisphere is warmer than the northern hemisphere?
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Q: growing buchu seedlings - ria n, January 08, 2001
- how do you grow buchu from seeds
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Q: growing buchu seedlings - ria n, January 08, 2001
- how do you grow buchu from seeds
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Q: growing buchu seedlings - ria n, January 08, 2001
- how do you grow buchu from seeds
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r: Growing buchu from seeds - Julie, January 14, 2001
- Dear Rian
Grassroots Natural Products should be able to help you with this - you can find them at:
gnp@iafrica.com
Julie
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Q: buchu growing - dick u, February 05, 2001
- we are a buddhist group which has bought about 100 ha of land in the tukbagh area for a meditation/retreat centre.
we want to use about 30 ha of this for small-scale agriculture and growing buchu is one of the possibilities.
i'd be grateful to receive any information on this crop, its management and marketing.
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r: Growing Buchu - julie, February 11, 2001
Cultivation of buchu is something which seems to be new to everyone, as until recently, the buchu that was being cut, was buchu growing naturally. Buchu is fairly sepcific as to where it chooses to grow naturally ie. at a certain altitude on south-west facing slopes. Hopefully, when it comes to cultivation, we'll be able to bend these rules a little. Grassroots Natural Products are at the forefront of establishing new plants either from seed or from cuttings (the latter hasn't been very succesful to date). They will also harvest your buchu - they send teams of cutters and pay you per kg of wet, buchu cut. The returns are fairly lucrative at present from buchu growing naturally as you have no set up costs. You could contact them at: gnp@iafrica.com - they could advise you as to whether they could supply you with seedlings, whether they'd have a chance in your area and maybe give you an idea of your set-up costs. Hope this helps.
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Q: Buchu Seeds - Alain Siboni, February 15, 2001
- Could anyone help me finding a supplier of Buchu (Barosma betulina) seeds?
Many thanks
Alain
Nice, France
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Q: Buchu Seedlings and Seed - John Armstrong, July 11, 2001
- I have done trials on seedlings and have been sucessful and would like to acquire 100 000 seed to produce seedlings for sale on contract or otherwise. Can anyone help me in sourcing the seed and if there is anyone requiring that i contract grow?
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r: Buchu seeds and seedlings - julie, July 11, 2001
- Which type of Buchu(Agathosma) seeds were you looking for?
We cannot supply seedlings.
Julie
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Q: Northern Hemisphere vs Southern Hemisphere - Yvonne F., October 21, 2000
- Please tell me the difference between US degrees vs yours.
Also difference between our fall and your fall.
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r: Celsius vs Fahrenheit - Charles Oertel, October 21, 2000
- We refer to degrees Celsius as opposed to the US degrees Fahrenheit. They are identical at -40 degrees, but the freezing point of water is 0 degrees Celsius (and 32 degrees Fahrenheit), and boiling water is at 100 degrees Celsius (and 212 degrees Fahrenheit).
Go to the link above to see a brilliant comparison of the two temperature scales.
Our fall (we call it autumn) is exactly the same as yours (i.e. it gets cooler and the nights become longer etc etc). But, it happens six months behind yours (i.e. when you are having spring, we are having fall in the Southern Hemisphere). From a protea-growing perspective the main differences depend on your climate. Normal (winter-rainfall) proteas are adapted to hot dry summers and cold, wet winters. We plant their seeds in our fall so the seedlings can grow strong before the dry summer.
However, if your winter is freezing and your summer moderate, you might want to plant your seeds in spring to give the seedlings a summer to strengthen before the frost.
From a seed germination perspective, spring and fall are much the same as the seed germination is triggered by temperature difference between day and night.
Celsius vs Fahrenheit conversion
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Q: Tips on getting cynaroides to flower - Kevin c, October 25, 2000
- I have protea cynaroides of 5 years and still have not seen a flower.Some are in pots and some are in the garden,they are approx 1 metre high and 1 metre wide with branches as thick as my thumb.Please please help.
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r: Dammed funny thing my protea won't flower either. - John, November 02, 2000
- I know how you feel Kevin I have got the same problem. Thought someone would have responded with some tips by now.
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c: Where have all the flowers gone? - Julie, November 03, 2000
- This is what I posted back to Kevins question:
Proteas are very sensitive to fertilizers. They generally grow in nutrient poor soil and have very low requirements for phosphorus & potassium especially. They can in fact be poisoned by these. Generally it is not recommended to give them fertilizer. Yet it has been shown in very, very poor soil conditions, that addition of specific fertilizers has shown to improve growth rate and flower quality.
The fertilizers recommended are as follows:
-slow release fertilizer beads eg. NPK (low phosphorous),NK (zero phosphorous)
-Soluble NPK (low phosphorous) through drip systems
-Nitrogen eg. urea formaldehyde or ammonium sulphate
-Potassium chloride (for soils low in potassium)
Addition of trace elements can also be beneficial - iron, magnesium & copper are required in very small quantities.
The fertilizer we sell on our website has all the above in it and is specially formulated to fertilize proteacea.
The timing of when you add the fertilizer is also important-should be before growth seasons of autumn and spring, soil should be moist and the fertilizers well watered in. Two to three small applications a year would also be better than one large one which may be poisonous to the plant.
I can't find any other specific information about what you should do.
You could perhaps try our protea research unit at: fynbos@igs5.agric.za
Hope this helps.
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Q: Price Quote - Peter H., August 04, 2000
- I'm interested in purchasing King and Queen protea seeds. Could you please send a price list to my e-mail address.
I am new to proteas, and any information pertaining to the successful germination and care for the protea plants would be greatly appreciated.
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r: Go Here - Julie Oertel, August 04, 2000
- Our seed catalog with prices and shipping information is online at Online Protea Seed Catalog.
Please look at the link in the title for information on germinating and growing proteas. The page is also accessible from the About Proteas button on the FineBushPeople.co.za home page.
About Proteas
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r: Me Too - Xavier Ibanez V., August 04, 2000
- I am also interested in growing proteas.
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Q: Protea Propagation Information - S. W. Tshabalala, August 04, 2000
- I ask for a report on the propagation of a cultivar protea by means of the following: seed, bulbs, grafting, autumn budding, spring budding, soft wood cutting, hardwood cutting, and tissue culture.
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Q: Seedlings zone 8 US. - J. Giles, August 04, 2000
- I received four seedlings as a gift-- Mayday, Orange Frost, Pink Ice Mink, and a red Pincussion.
I live in Dallas, TX Zone 7/8 in U.S.; Dallas is right on the cusp of both
zones. Can these seedlings be landscape grown in this climate and when is the best time to transplant.
They are currently in 1 gallon terracotta pots. Potting soil = 1/3 pearlite, 1/3 sand, and 1/3 peat. This mixture dries out quite quickly so watering is required about 2x weekly. They have been placed in a southern exposure away from draft and direct heat.
Seeking advice on where to go from here. Thanks for your help.
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r: Transplant at the beginning of the rainy season - Charles Oertel, August 04, 2000
- I am not particularly familiar with the climate in Dallas. So, let's work from first principles:
The protea's natural climate involves cool, wet winters, and hot dry summers. Do not succumb to English Country Garden thinking and water your plants on a hot day - mine die very suddenly from root fungus when I do this. Water the plants early in the morning when it is cool, and keep the watering down to at most twice a week or less (more for seedlings).
I don't think the plants will mind if the winters aren't cold - as long as you avoid warm and wet conditions your plants should be fine. You are doing the right thing giving the plants a southerly aspect, since they need full sun. My experience is that the mature plants are hardy in the wind, and some prefer a draft. However, seedlings enjoy a measure of shelter from the other bushes around them.
Eventually, if the plants stay in the pots, they will need to be fed. DO NOT GIVE THEM FERTILIZER! (Unless you are tired of them). Phosphates are very harmful to the protioid roots. We use a natural liquid food mixed with water called Seagro (tm) that is made from seaweed. I'm sure you can get something similar in the states. We also now have a specially formulated protea fertilizer, that you can buy from our online store at http://FineBushPeople.co.za/farmstore/catalog/accessorystore.htm
As for transplanting: the plants need soil similar to that in the pots - acid, sandy and well-drained. Get a kit to measure the acidity of your landscape soil - you should have a pH of less than 7. You can make soil more acid by adding sulphur powder and pine needle compost. Pine needles also make a good acid mulch for the soil around the proteas. Do the transplanting at the start of the rainy season, so that the plants can get established before the dry season.
If your soil is very loamy or clayey, you need to add lots of sand. If it is not well drained, raise the beds that the proteas will be planted in above the natural ground level using river sand in a similar mixture to the pots (1/3 sand, 1/3 pine needle compost, 1/3 perlite).
One more thing - proteas HATE having their roots disturbed. When you transplant, make sure the entire clod of soil in the pot comes out with the plant and goes into the ground with as little disturbance as possible. Also, don't disturb the soil around the proteas in the garden.
If your conditions are too unsuitable, why not put the plants out in the landscape in their pots?
Does anyone else have further advice?
More About Proteas
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Q: King Protea in Canada - John B., August 04, 2000
- I had acquired a King Protea Cutting last April. I live in Northern Ontario Canada so indoors is my only option.
The cutting rooted and has grown aprox. 6-8inches. I would appreciate any info
on growing indoors, food supplies needed, etc.etc.
It is growing in a soiless compound. My research has had limited success because of my locale and the nature of the plant. I am interested in food supply, nutrient requirements, pruning,... anything would help.
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r: Kings do grow in pots - Charles Oertel, August 04, 2000
- I don't know of any successful blooms of the King Protea in Canada - but then there are many things I don't know about.
As for feeding - we use a natural seaweed extract plant food called Seagro. You should be able to get something similar in Canada. You mix a little of it into the water when watering. Ours is a thick brown emulsion that smells like a fish factory. We have recently also come across a protea fertilizer specially formulated for proteas (normal fertilizer burns their roots). You can buy it online at http://FineBushPeople.co.za/farmstore/catalog/accessorystore.htm
The plant is probably rooted in something like perlite or vermiculite. This is to prevent the soil around the roots becoming compacted over
time and leading to poor drainage which would kill the plant eventually. Don't be concerned that the plant might starve because "it isn't in good rich soil". Proteas normally grow in coarse sand with very little loam or compost and are used to nutrient-poor conditions. This does mean that you need to feed the plant regularly in its water.
DO NOT use chemical fertilizers or anything fancy that you use on other plants - it will burn the roots of the protea. Stick to natural foods.
You can put a top-dressing of well-rotted pine-needles over the soil mix, but avoid disturbing the soil in any way.
There is more on our site (which you may have found already). Hope this helps, good luck and let us know how you fare (it should take about 3 years to flower ;-)
Please, anyone else with some experience of John's problem, let's hear your advice.
More About Proteas
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Q: New to Proteas - Hong Y., August 04, 2000
- Hi! I'm from Singapore, and I'm really interested in growing Proteas (I've got a few dried heads in my room). Anyway, our humidity is around 85% with temps ranging from 33C day and 24C night.
What types of Protea can be grown ?
Thanks for the help !
Carnivorous Plant Page
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r: Try Protea Cynaroides in a pot - Charles Oertel, August 04, 2000
- There are some proteas that grow further north in Africa (where it is more tropical). I have heard of success growing the King Protea (P. cynaroides) in a pot (with suitable soil and nutrients. This is worth a try, since P. cynaroides grows under a wide range of conditions, and you could always grow it indoors where it is air-conditioned yet sunny.
The secret with growing a protea in a pot is to use a soil mixture that has a lot of perlite, tree bark compost and peat or equivalent (to provide natural nutrients and keep the mixture light and well-drained). Also, feed the plant with an organic fertilizer such as Seagro (tm) (which is made from seaweed). DO NOT USE CHEMICAL FERTILIZER! Also, for compost use no animal dung - only well-rotted plant material.
We now also have a specially formulated protea fertilizer called 'Fyngro' available from our online store at http://FineBushPeople.co.za/farmstore/catalog/accessorystore.htm
What type of protea heads do you have?
About Growing Proteas
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Q: Pincushions in a wet climate - Carol A., August 04, 2000
- We are located in a rainforest at the 2000 foot level above Hilo, Hawaii. Our average rainfall is 200 inches per year. The soil is quite acidic. We filled an area six feet deep with black volcanic cinder. There is never standing water or bogginess, but it is never completely dry either. Our Kings & Queens did not survive, but the pincussions thrived for about 3 years. What can we do to improve the habitat for protea?
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r: Wet climat??? - Rudolf H. Rahn, August 22, 2000
- Dear Carol:
I am sure that you will be able to grow proteas in your beautiful Hilo. From your altitude I believe your are living on the slop of Kilauea. You will have lots of fog and dew in the morning, that's what proteas like. You are worrying too much about the rainfall. In my place, we had over 900" of rain last year. The rain is concentrated between May and September. The rest of the year it's just dew (not always). Than I irrigate. What is your climate during the year? Is the rain concentrated to a few months of the year? You said that you made up 6 ft. volcanic cinder and put your plants in it. What's below the cinder? Hard volcanic rock? I have a similar situation. I have about 10" of earth. Than comes about 40" (or more) hard volcanic stuff, no roots can pass. Below that is the cinder. So, I have to make a hole about 40" x 40" wide and get below the hard stuff until I get to the cinder where the water than runs away. My plants are growing fine.
Please answer my questions and I will try to help you.
Regards,
Rudolf H. Rahn
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Q: Protea Tree - Merrilyn, August 04, 2000
- I live in Natal and was given a protea plant from a friend who went on holiday to Cape Town. The tree is planted in a rocky sloping area and is about 2 meters tall. It is now about 2 years old but up till now I have had no flowers. Are there any special mixtures I must feed it and will it ever bear flowers in Natal?
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r: Your Protea Tree is doing fine - Charles Oertel, August 04, 2000
- Proteas start flowering anywhere between their second year and their fifth year, depending on the species and the conditions. Your plant will probably flower next year (don't worry, it is developing normally ;-).
Do not feed your protea. Chances are that the soil it is in is already very rich, and almost too rich considering the barren conditions proteas grow in in the Cape. Unlike many of the tropical plants you might be used to in Natal, proteas thrive in nutrient-poor conditions.
From the size of the tree in only two years, my guess is that it is doing very well and definitely not short of nutrition.
Also, if you give your protea anything with phosphates in, it may die. When I feed a plant, I use Seagro organic extract from seaweed, because it doesn't harm the root system of proteas the way other chemical fertilizers do.
About Growing Proteas
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Q: Proteas temperature tolerance - Les E., August 04, 2000
- I am considering growing proteas in the Mooi River area of KwaZulu Natal. Unfortunately, this location has the reputation of being one of the coldest places in South Africa. Therefore, I need to know which types of protea would be most suited to this inhospitable climate (if any). I would gratefully accept any advice on this proposed venture.
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r: temperature survived - Kevin Caddy, October 25, 2000
- I have grown protea cynaroides,eximia and subvestita outside in england and they have come through a minus 7 frost without any damage what so ever.
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Q: Proteas and Hydroponics - Peter McW., August 07, 2000
- I have a number of Proteas in my garden and want to take some cuttings from these plants. I want to propagate the cuttings using general hydroponic nutrient and get them to an advanced stage where I can hopefully pot them.
Have you heard of hydroponics with proteas before?
As they are woody should they be treated like other woody plant cuttings?
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r: Proteas root easily from cuttings - Charles Oertel, August 07, 2000
- Proteas generally root easily from cuttings. Cut the cuttings from new growth to avoid having woody stems.
Hydroponic nutrient is probably too strong for the cuttings. Ensure it has no phosphorous. I know of success using sand and peat mixtures with perlite or vermiculite to keep the soil loose.
Once the roots grow you can transplant into more nutritious soil mixtures.
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c: Protea's from cuttings - Margaret. a., August 31, 2000
- Charles, am very interested in speeding up the strike time of protea. at this point we have no problem striking leucadendron and leucospermum within 2-3months however find protea's taking a lot longer and prone to blackening of the leaves. we have tried both on and off a hot bed. Can you advise. We do use the mix you recommend.
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r: Research on this at the Fynbos Research Institute - Gordon B., August 07, 2000
- Extensive research on the rooting of protea cuttings as well as proteas in hydroponics is being done by Fynbos, Agricutural Research Council, Elsenburg, South Africa.
You may contact: Willem Eigenhuis at tel no. +27 21 8085431.
Fynbos Research Unit
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Q: Dying Protea Tree - John J., August 07, 2000
- I live in New Zealand. I have a Protea tree which was in the garden when I bought the farm 5 years ago. It is probably 10 years old and had been flowering well. The last week it looks like it is dying from the bottom up. It is 2 meters tall and has been dry and in a sheltered area.
Should I cut it right back? Will it regrow? Help.
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r: What kind of protea is it? - Charles Oertel, August 07, 2000
- It depends on what type of protea you have. Some proteas survive fire by having a rhizome or tuber under the ground - these can be pruned right down to ground level and will sprout again.
Most proteas, though, survive fire by dropping seed after they die in the blaze. They generally do not sprout again when cut back into the woody stems. You can try cutting it back.
The most likely cause of illness in proteas is fungus, though you say it is in a dry spot. Avoid watering it when it is hot, I always water in the coolest part of the morning, just at sunrise.
Another cause of death from the bottom up might be a borer that has gotten into the stem and is hollowing it out from inside. If you are lucky you might find the tunnel - there will be droppings coming out of it - and kill the culprit before the damage kills the whole plant.
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Q: Growing Proteas on the West Coast of Canada - James R., August 07, 2000
- It might sound a bit hard to believe, but I am going to attempt to grow protea in Canada. I would like to go into some detail about our climate here, and see what you think; should I dare to grow the ungrowable in The Great Northern Nation(you may role eyes now)?
Believe it or not there are areas where temperatures range from zone 8a to 9a on Canada's west coast, in British Columbia. These zone roughly correspond to those outlined by USDA, that is, zone 8a -12 to -7C (20-10F)and zone 9 -7 to -1C(30 to 20F), of course it rarely gets down to even -7C, and snow is even more rare. The zone nine areas include Sechelt peninsula on the main-land, the Gulf Islands (Salt Spring Island) between main-land and Victoria, Victoria on the very southern tip of Vancouver Island, and areas up to central Vancouver Island (Port Alberni). These are the areas in the rain shadow of Vancouver Island, in the Georgia straight. These areas can be very dry, some areas could be called mediteranean if you're a liberal kind of person. Many succulents, two cacti species, and Arbutus trees (rel.to strawberry tree, but larger) flourish here.
In winter we receive monsoons from sept/dec to april/june, with almost continuous drizzle, with a short, dry cold spell around december. Summer usually receives lengthy dry spells and occasional drought, with intermitent showers, or sometimes week long drizzles. Many gingers, eucalyptus, mediteranean fan palm and other palms, yuccas, and certain banna species have all been grown succesfully in this area.
Native soils are found over rock, glacial till or dead pan, containing gravel and clay, with very little organic material; in forests, the organic soil layer that contains any useful nutrients is usually no deeper than 1/2 inch, and that's deep for this area. Sandy soils are infrequent but can be found on the coast, and islands.
In contrast, areas on the west side of the Vancouver Islands mountains are some of the wettest places on continental North America. Some valleys receive up to 200 or more inches of rain a year, and when it's not raining, it almost always foggy; this is the land of temperate rainforest. I don't believe proteas would favor this environment, although the warmest winters are experienced on the west coast of this island.
Well, I could go into further detail, but I believe this much detail will do. I'd like to hear from any of you Protea experts about what protea (and any fynbos) gardening potential we might have here. Many other South African plants(crocosmia...) are common garden plants here, so who knows?
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r: You won't be alone - Charles Oertel, August 07, 2000
- It sounds like it will work - wet, cool winters and warm dry summers. Soils that don't have many nutrients. I hope your soil is acid and well-drained. Also, the proteas like full sun.
Diane on the protea list has some grevillia on her property, also on Vancouver Island. The link below should take you to her gardening pages.
Good Luck.
Diane's Nature Notes
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c: Protea garden is comming along - James R. BC Canada, April 24, 2001
- I seem to be having fynbos fever. I recently built a new rock garden on my slope, and I've planted it with native plants mixxed with South African plants, including some king proteas, ice plants, and even some Cape Sundews in a small bog garden, and their all doing well. I'm just hoping they'll prove frost hardy here, or won't get damaged in our cool, wet weather we having at this time. Just wanted to update you on how the proteas and other fynbos species were doing.
Cheers!
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Q: Help with Potted Pincushions - Edna M., August 07, 2000
- I have 6 container pincushion protea plants purchased over the last 3 years. When first purchased, they had beautiful blooms. We have repotted several using pumice and redwood mulch. We also fertilize with bloodmeal.
One of the repotted plants died and two died on their own (wilted). The plants have signs of immature buds that never get fully developed. Is there anything we can do to help the remaining protea plants to bloom again? Any help you can extend, is deeply appreciated.
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r: Non flowering pincushions - Rudolf H. Rahn, August 19, 2000
- You probably are giveng your plants to much fertilizer. Bloodmeal is 15 or 12-0-0. That is a lot of Nitrogen. No plant will flower with a lot of nitrogen. Hold back a bit your fertilizer.
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Q: Agastachys odorata and Bellendena montana germination - R. Howe, August 07, 2000
- Does anyone have any suggestions for the Germination of Agastachys odorata or Bellendena montana seed? I know they're Australian proteaceae, not South African, but some of you may be growing them anyway.
Any advice gratefully received, as they seem to be stubborn customers when coming to germination!
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r: Try Smoke Primer - Charles Oertel, August 07, 2000
- You don't say what it is that you have tried that isn't working for you. Have you tried Smoke Primer?
Smoke Primer Catalog
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Q: Commercial Growing of Proteas - Margaret, August 08, 2000
- Are there any commercial growers of proteas in this discussion group? I am a new grower of protea and leucadendron and would value exchanging information with other growers.
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r: Starting Commercial Growing of Proteas - Allison, August 08, 2000
- I am looking into growing proteas and would like all the information I can get, to get started. Any information would be much appreciated.
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c: What Info do you need? - Margaret, August 08, 2000
- What sort of information do you require? How far into the project have you gone so far? Are you familiar with the Australian flora and Protea Growers Association. A.F.P.G.A. There may be some information on their web site. I will be glad to help if I can. There is some good information on www.rusticranch.com Good Luck.
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r: We are and we need help - Jeanette, August 08, 2000
- My husband and I are also new to growing and at present are in our 3rd year of growing leuc. Safari sunset. We are having a problem with ours at present as some of the new growth is dying at the tips of the leaves and we are getting an irridescence on the ends of some older leaves, We can't find a description that can tell us what the problem is, we did use a rainguard in our spray a couple of times last year and are using orthene, the young growth seems to be affected and nearly always on one side of the plants or in the middle, only this variety is being affected, can anyone help with suggestions as to what it could be.
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c: leuc damage - Jeanette Tagoai, September 01, 2000
- we dicovered that the damage was due to using raingard which is a substance to sytick the spray on to the plants so that rain dosn't wash it off it is also used to stop foliage dehydration in cuttings. Orthene is an insecticide
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c: Commercial Growing - Margaret .A., August 31, 2000
- Like all new growers I am often concerned I'm doing the wrong thing. What is a rainguard and havn't heard of orthene..is it used for fungus? Just some more things to learn!!
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r: Also Interested - Ron R., August 08, 2000
- I am interested in the commercial growing of Proteas in Australia. Any information would be greatly appreciated.
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r: Interested - Terry and Karen B., August 08, 2000
- We own a 500 hectare farm known as middelberg peak, it is on top of the pass 17km from Citrusdal on the Ceres road. The entire farm burned out 4 years ago, at that stage it contained a large magnifica plantation. We recently had a lady from George atlasing, she claimed 17 listings in a few hours, apparently very impressive. We currently have a generous crop of leucadendron rubrum, we would be interested if it would be worth a harvest. Any input would be gratefully received.
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r: Orthene? - julie, October 10, 2000
- Orthenes active ingredient is acephate and is used from what I can find out as an insecticide.
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Q: How gregarious are protea? - gail k., September 15, 2000
- I have protea, leucadendron and leucospermums on berms in my yard. Notice their leaves of some turn away when adjacent ones start to touch.
Should I ensure new ones are spaced so this will not happen?
What should I do with the existing ones?
Thanks
Gail K.
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r: Space between proteas - Julie, September 29, 2000
Dear Gail
I would prune the existing proteas quite heavily, especially in the area where they are intruding on anothers space. I would plant any new ones with space around them so that once grown they do not touch. Proteas do grow in groups, but do like to have their own space around them. If they're too densely planted you may not get enough airflow around the bush and the plant could remain moist and be susceptible to fungal disease and diseases will be more easily transferred between plants if densely packed.
Hope this helps
Julie
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r: Protea planting distance - Rudolf H. Rahn, September 29, 2000
- I don't know where and how you have planted your proteas.
Here is a copy of what the booklet "Grow Proteas" from the Kirstenbosch garden series
sais: The recommanded planting distance is 0.5m for all species that attain a maximum hight of 2 m.
All species exceeding 2 m. are planted 1 m apart.
I hope this will help.
Rudolf H. Rahn
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c: planting distance for proteas - Margaret, October 02, 2000
- I have a young protea plantation and have planted most species, ie leucadendrons and leucospermums approx 1mtre apart. However it is already apparent that we should have planted the proteas at a greater distance than the above species as they are clearly going to need more space. I have recently visited an older established plantation and am now concerned that our proteas will be crowding each other. In the future we will plant proteas 2-2.5 metres apart.
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Q: flowering time - india j., October 12, 2000
- How many months/ years after seeding does the protea plant flower?
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r: flowering time - julie, October 16, 2000
- Generally, it is between 2-4 years before a bush will produce its' first flowers.
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Q: Young Proteas and Light Levels? - James Reinert, January 06, 2001
- Hello again!
I recently aquired a King protea, although a very small one(3-4 in high). I have placed it in a special unit I made outside, it's covered in plastic, with a light bulb for warmth, and a small fan for increased air circulation (seen as it's covered in non-breathable plastic). The light bulb doesn't heat it up to much, just enough to keep the frost of the plants.
The only problem, is that the light is quite dim inside he unit. Is this a problem for Protea seedlings in winter? As well, is there anything I might want to do differently for my plant?
Thanx!
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r: King Protea Unit - julie, January 14, 2001
- Dear James
You seem to be doing everything you can to keep this plant happy. My only concern is that if the unit is totally enclosed and not allowed to breathe, that, even though you have the fan, it may be making conditions ripe for fungal diseases.
Proteas, as I'm sure you know, love air flow around them and full sun - both of which you are trying to create for them.
I'd say your main objective would be to keep the humidity down and maybe add a fungicide to you water used for watering as a preventative. Once the plant shows signs of a fungus, it's usually too late to save it.
Hope this helps.
regards
Julie
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Q: More Questions... - James Reinert, January 06, 2001
- -Might it be bennificial to put a layer of sand/gracel over soil for my King protea?
-How often should I water it?
-Should I mist it?
Thanx again!
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Q: I made a big boo boo BONEMEAL - James, April 19, 2001
- Well, it seems, just out of habit, I threw in a handfull of bonemeal into the soil whilest planting. It didn't quite register with me that bonemeal should be avoided like the plague. So what do I do now? Transplant in before it takes root? Is there some sort of counreactive chemical or top dressing that can be applied the soil to lock up or leach out the phosphate. Does this spell the end for my first Protea?
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r: Try this remedy - julie, April 21, 2001
- I have never used it but some time ago I found it on the
Internet.
You may have to do more than that if you've already
given them phos. for a while: You should immediately
give them a drink of the following concoction:
In 5 gallons of water
5 teasp. Ammonium sulphate
2 teasp. Epsom salts
1/2 teasp. iron sulphate
1/2 teasp. zinc sulphate
Water the roots well before applying this tonic
mixture, and then only apply 1/2 cup of the mixture
per year of age of the plant. The mixture can also be
given as a foliar spray, but only if roots are well
watered and if done in the evening when it's not too
hot.
The normal preparation of this tonic involves 3 tsp.
Ammonium sulphate and a single tsp. epsom salts.
However, the higher nitrogen and magnesium may (note
the use of the word "may") help tie up the phos you've
been adding for a while. This mix is also acid and may
help lower the pH a bit. If the plants are too far
gone, this treatment may not do very much.
Please tell the person to let me know if it works.
Regards
Rudy
--- Julie@www.finebushpeople.co.za wrote:
> Dear Rudolf H. Rahn
>
> This
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Q: Protecting Proteaceae From Animals - James, June 12, 2001
- Hi again!
Ok, I got some serious Protea casualties in my garden. Either cats or racoons went digging into my gravel bed, where my Leucodendrons were planted, and piled the dirt on top of my seedlings. I thought they might be able to recover from this, because it never actually damaged the roots or stems. But about a week later, they had all flopped over as a result of withered stems. I've now protected the bed from animals with a short chicken wire fence.
I just wanted to know if you had any advice on how to prevent birds, cats, or any other animals from potentially rooting around plants?
I think I might have to device some of my own repelent methods, I've also had black bears in my yard, and they just love digging threw exposed gravel for ants and what not.
Cheers!
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Q: Protecting Proteaceae From Animals - James, June 12, 2001
- Hi again!
Ok, I got some serious Protea casualties in my garden. Either cats or racoons went digging into my gravel bed, where my Leucodendrons were planted, and piled the dirt on top of my seedlings. I thought they might be able to recover from this, because it never actually damaged the roots or stems. But about a week later, they had all flopped over as a result of withered stems. I've now protected the bed from animals with a short chicken wire fence.
I just wanted to know if you had any advice on how to prevent birds, cats, or any other animals from potentially rooting around plants?
I think I might have to device some of my own repelent methods, I've also had black bears in my yard, and they just love digging threw exposed gravel for ants and what not.
Cheers!
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Q: Hybrid Proteas and Red King Proteas - Hugh Harnett, August 20, 2001
- I am trying to get hold of some hybrid protea seed, who would I contact? On a similar line I saw some stunning red King Proteas in the Knysna Titsikama area are these a hybrid or has it to do with the soil they are in?
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r: Hybrids of P.Cynaroides - julie, August 21, 2001
- As to my knowledge, the seeds of a hybrid will not be
the same as the parent plant (if they make seeds). You
will have to grow them from cuttings.
Rudolf H. Rahn
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Q: Lignotubers in proteas - Rudolf H. Rahn, April 07, 2002
- I have several proteas cynaroides. The ones sawn from seeds have lingnotubers. The ones from cuttings don't have them. Will they grow lingnotubers some day?
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Q: Planting with blood and bone - Alistair Gordon, May 10, 2002
- When planting a couple of proteas last week, I threw a handful of blood and bone into each hole before planting.
I have only now read the comments about bonemeal.
Will blood and bone have the same detrimental effect, and should I re-plant before the plants become settled?
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Q: How exactly do you grow proteas from cuttings? - Ted K, June 01, 2002
- Can someone tell meexactly what the process is for growing proteas fromcuttings? I know that you have to have green wood, but do you have to remove all the leaves, what sort of soil do I use to strike them, and does the fect that I live in South Australia have any impact on the process?
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Q: To prune or not to prune - Bridgette, August 03, 2000
- I planted my poker last summer. It has not yet bloomed. Over the winter here in Kentucky. My poker has turned brown, slumped down, and the top has fell over. Do I need to cut that off in order for new growth or do I justleave it alone?
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Q: Information on pruning Leucospermums - Donna S., August 03, 2000
- We are new growers in NZ with coastal conditions and we would value anyone giving us any information.
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Q: Help. I pruned it. - Samantha L., August 03, 2000
- I have protea 'Christine' which is a P. compacta hybrid. It has two big stalks and last Winter it had a flower on one stalk. I pruned the finished flower. The cut is sloping and starts a little above the bud, just like the ones shown in the pruning page, but since then the plant has not grown on that side at all and it looks as though any side buds have been destroyed by fungus. What can I do?
Samantha's Home Page
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r: You did the right thing - Julie Oertel, August 03, 2000
- What may have happened here is that your pruning instrument was not clean before using and may have transferred an infection to your plant. Or an infection has just entered at this vulnerable point.
I'd recommend that after cleaning your pruning shears (we usually use methylated spirits), cut back the part that seems infected, once again to just above a bud or leaf lower down on the branch.
The most important thing now is to get rid of the infection before it destroys your entire plant. Unfortunately sometimes these things happen. You did the right thing by pruning as you did.
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Q: How to prune leucospermum cordifolium? - Gail Klein, June 19, 2001
- I have a 8 ft wide x 3ft tall beauty growing new leaves at bottom of wasted flowers. How do I prune to keep the low, spreading shape, while encouraging new flowers for next year?
I notice one earlier question on topic not answered. Your general info is not enuf. Thanks much
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r: Pruning Leucospermums - Julie, June 25, 2001
- No better information than what we give on our pruning info page.
You could try protea.worldonline.co.za
Good luck
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r: Pruning pincushions - Tony, July 24, 2001
- Thanks a lot for your advice. I am really interested in pruning to better
the life of the proteas and make my bunch look better. I have about 15,
>>If so prune as you would any other plant, with the proviso that you never cut into old wood. For best results prune only as far down as their are healthy green leaves. Prune heavily if you want to reduce the height of the bush. But most importantly (apart from never cutting into old wood) start early - you cannot suddenly start pruning old bushes.
It is a plant, not a graft. I don't know about the rootstock; nor the
cultivar. It's orange and I do cover it when the temp gets around 30
degrees C. It is extremely vigorous.
>>It sounds like a simple species, in which case it should be fine.
I think I am doing the right thing, though tell me if I have gone off. The
gardener across the street showed me how to shape it. I am removing some of
the old growth branches down to near the stem, to open up the middle of the
plant, improve circulation and let the new shoots grow up into the sun.
Then he said, when they've grown somewhat, to cut the new growth on the old
remaining branches to the height I prefer.
>>That sounds OK. Just remember the proviso. To reduce branching or flowering you can disbud or remove the very young buds, but that does not seem to be what you are wanting. Ideally each cut should give you five or six branches, which you may want to select from if you don't want the bush to bushy. But the number and vigor of the branches will depend on the growth state of the branch when pruned. You will need to play around to get the effect you want. Just remember that at some stage buds will change from growth to flowering. If you are going to prune "the new growth on the old remaining branches" you will need to do this before the buds change. However, your gardener seems to be on top of the situation!
Ta
Tony
Subject: Re: Leucadendron Pruning
Hi Gail
I am afraid I do not have enough information.
Is this a plant or a graft? What is the rootstock?
You can prune proteas, but do not cut into wood that has no leaves as that
will kill the stem. Leaf and flower buds will only originate from living
leaves. By timing the pruning you can encourage either growth or flowers,
or regulate the timing of flowering. However, the details will depend on
the cultivar you are growing.
That is the best I can do offhand. Please contact elsenberg agricultural
college (please see the bottom of our web page for the address)
See also on our web page > "Info, school projects" > "growing proteas" >
"pruning proteas"
The web page is www.nbi.ac.za/proteas
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Q: Spots on my protea leaves - Irene S.B., August 02, 2000
- I have a problem in my Proteas. See the pictures of the leaves, and please tell me what I need to do to eliminate this matter?
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r: It looks like fungus - Charles Oertel, August 02, 2000
- The spots and the damaged leaf tips look like fungal attack. There is a wide range of fungal species that could cause this, my guess is the elsinoe spp. and maybe something else. I am by no means a botanist or plant pathologist.
Anyway, what you need to do is remove the diseased leaves and spray with a broad-spectrum fungicide. Remember that fungus is spread by invisible spores in the air, and that it thrives in warm, humid conditions, avoid cutting on your plants when it is warm and humid.
When cutting off infected leaves, or pruning or cutting flowers, always disinfect your pruning shears with methylated spirits or bleach between plants. Also, burn all diseased plant material that you prune.
Also, you need to change the fungicide you use from time to time to prevent the fungus from becoming intolerant. Luckily, fungicide does not harm the environment and is safe for animals, birds and plants.
To avoid fungal attack in the future, you should run a preventative fungal spray programme during the times when humidity levels are high, typically during spring and autumn. If some plants are very susceptible to fungus, remove them and burn them. Keep the hardy plants.
You will need to find out which fungicides are available in your area, and which are approved for use on ornamental plants etc.
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r: Leaf spotting and die-back - Warren Wealands, November 16, 2000
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Q: fungicides - Stephanie, April 12, 2001
- What fungicides are useful for protea magnifica? The leaves have much red and don't look healthy.
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Q: Protea leaves dry up and die - Andreas L., September 08, 2001
- Hi there! I have tried growing protea from seed, but once the seedlings reach a height of about 15cm, the tips of the older leaves turn red, then brown. They eventually fall off and the plant dies. Could this be due to fungal disease, or an overly cold & wet climate (I live in Britain!)? I have tried to ensure that the plants get plenty of ventilation by growing them outside but under some cover to protect them from all that rain we get here. Can anyone help?
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Q: How best to harvest our wild buchu? - Julie Oertel, July 26, 2000
- We have wild buchu on the farm, and various people have approached us to cut it - but we don't fancy the idea of letting cutters loose on our mountain slopes. We would rather grow buchu in the tame part of the farm and harvest it there to preserve the rest of the mountain.
What should we do?
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r: Wild Buchu probably already being cut - by thieves - Micky L., July 26, 2000
- It's good that you're strict with your buchu. Our teams
are quite trained and disciplined when harvesting, re not damaging veld, littering, cutting properly. However I have seen sad scenarios from other greedy groups.
Friendly tip, if people have approached you they probably know the whereabouts of your buchu. Suggest you monitor your stands. Also have resident locals observing and take registration of vehicles etc on property that shouldn't be
there. Sorry to say but theft of buchu has been terrible problem last few years in some areas. Sometimes just a rastafarian of two, sometimes highly organised.
Before any cutting the veld should be assessed anyway re status and age/woodiness of plants, presence of seedlings,
etc, to first determine appropriate harvesting protocol. Then veld is usually divided into blocks, so each section has two years minimum to flower and set seed before cut again.
If anyone wants to cut in winter when plants are flowering, definitely chase them away!!! That's selfish in that flowers merely make bushes easier to find, so is "efficient", but obviously most detrimental for chance to set seed and replenish veld in long term.
Sounds great if you want no cutting tho. If you ever do,
cutting it yourselves is another option. Just need to know the technique.
Oh, do not introduce any new seed from elsewhere, by the way. Only plant what is endemic (ie use your own seed if/when one day you do plant). Farmers bringing in seed from elsewhere have caused much hybridisation / contamination of wild gene pools, which also threatens species conservation. Grassroots Natural Products can help you harvest your seed and grow seedlings if you wish.
Round-leaf is highly superior to long-leaf buchu in terms of medicinal chemical profile. Long leaf much easier to grow, which is why since the 50's farmers introduced it. If
you have pure round-leaf only you are extremely lucky.
Grassroots Natural Products
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c: Looking to meet buchu growers for research - Michiel Meets, July 26, 2000
- My name is Michiel Meets and I work for the Agricultural Research Council in Elsenburg near Stellenbosch. I am currently (started this year) doing research on both honeybush tea and buchu and would really like to come in contact with you, Micky, and Charles and Julie. Hope you can help me in this regard.
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c: Possible solution for your search for Buchu supplies - Andy , November 10, 2000
- Hello Michiel
I think it's important that we meet. I am in contact with Buchu farmers. What's more they are Black Farmers, meaning one can possibly have a Black Empowerment exercise here,, dont you think?
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Q: Slimming effect of Buchu - Di, July 26, 2000
- I have seen Buchu tablets for slimming (made by Vital products). How is buchu beneficial for slimming and why?
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r: Buchu is a diuretic - Julie Oertel, July 26, 2000
- Buchu is normally used for urinary tract problems, one of its actions being diuretic. This same diuretic action is useful to expel excess water that you might be carrying when slimming.
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Q: Looking for Buchu leaf extract - Osei W., July 26, 2000
- I have a client in the U.S who is looking for buchu leaf extract. Can you assist?
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r: Looking for Buchu Extract? - John Armstrong, January 31, 2001
- Try Ulrich Feiter of Parceval. They do alot of medicinal extracts. Based in Wellington.
parceval@adept.co.za
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Q: Profitability of Buchu in the Western Cape - Elma H., July 26, 2000
- Where can I get info on whether or not buchu would be a profitable crop to grow in the Western Cape? I would like to know which country imports buchu and in what form.
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Q: Where to get buchu plants or seeds for commercial growing? - Charles M., July 26, 2000
- I wish to enquire whether you sell buchu seeds or plants? Alternatively could you please refer me to a possible source?
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r: Try Grassroots Natural Products (GNP) - Charles Oertel, July 26, 2000
- We don't supply buchu plant material ourselves. In fact, we are struggling to keep the buchu thieves off our stand long enough for the plants to flower so we can harvest seed for ourselves. However, you will get great help from Grassroots Natural Products (GNP).
This company has given us tremendous help in learning how to grow and harvest our buchu ecologically and sustainably. For more information about the issues involved, see Micky L's response to the first question in this topic.
GNP is also in a position to help you grow buchu from seed (cuttings don't work that well yet, but they are experimenting with it).
GNP Website link
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r: If you can find out please let me know... - Elmari Hugo, October 10, 2000
- Charles
If you found out where you can get buchu seeds please let met know at elmari_hugo@yahoo.com
I'm interested in it too.
Thanks
Elmari Hugo
10 Oct 2000
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r: Availability of Buchu seeds - julie, October 19, 2000
- I went to a Buchu Forum organized by Elsenberg and I asked this very question. Neither Elsenberg nor Grassroots have seed available. It is very scarce at present. Seed should be harvested in December so maybe early next year there may be some available.
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Q: Starting Buchu Farming in Clanwilliam - Yvonne B., August 17, 2000
- We have some farming land in the Clanwilliam district and are interested in planting buchu for commercial farming. The information regarding buchu farming seems very scant on the internet and I was wondering what info you could supply - availability of seeds, cost per hectare, markets, soil types etc.
If not, could you perhaps recommend an institution that could help?
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r: Try Grassroots Natural Products - Charles Oertel, August 17, 2000
- We are also about to start farming Buchu, as opposed to harvesting it from the wild. Grassroots Natural Products has been most helpful in giving us advice and providing services such as harvesting seed and growing seedlings.
They are also the ones implementing a permit system that will allow farmers and conservation officers to stop illegal pickers, so I trust them.
Grassroots Website
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Q: Looking for suppliers of Buchu leaves - Karl T., August 31, 2000
- Is there any Buchu Farmer or distributor who can supply us with about 5 - 10 kg of leaves annually. We are situated in Gauteng and are selling herbs for the last 15 years. We are running short of supplies and suppliers lately, probably due to the increased interrest in Buchu worldwide.
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r: Buchu source - Julie Oertel, September 29, 2000
Dear Karl
Try Grassroots - you can contact them at: gnp@iafrica.com
regards
Julie
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Q: plants - Coenie, August 31, 2000
- where do I get buchu plants or seeds?
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r: Buchu contacts - julie, September 11, 2000
- Dear Coenie
Try Grassroots - their e-mail address is: gnp@iafrica.com
You'll find them very helpful.
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Q: GROWING BUCHU - ANDRE M., September 26, 2000
- WHAT HUMDITY AND TEMPERATURE CAN BUCHU BE GROWN ON,BY USING TUNNELS.
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r: why in tunnels - pk, February 10, 2001
- If you are thinking about tunnels it dosent sound vaiable in the westeren cape. as the plants are endemic to the region and they grow in the feild well once they are established.
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Q: BUCHU FARMING - ANDRE M., September 26, 2000
- ON WHAT TEMPERATURE AND HUMIDITY DO YOU GROW BUCHU IN TUNNELS
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Q: What is buchu? - John, September 26, 2000
- Sorry to sound ignorant I live in the uk and have no idea.
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r: Description of Buchu - Julie, September 30, 2000
- Dear John
Buchu is an indigenous shrub to SA that grows upto 2m in height and has rounded leaves dotted with oil glands that are found along the edges. The leaves have a characteristic smell when crushed. Buchu has been used as a medicinal plant for 100's of years - it is used as a tonic, as a urinary antiseptic, as a diuretic, as an antiseptic powder etc.
The correct name is Agathosma - and there are a number of different - the 2 main species used are Agathosma Betulina and Agathosma Crenulata. The oil is extracted from the dried leaves and used medicinally, in the food industry as a flavor enhancer and in the cosmetic industry as an astringent.
Both these species grow only in the mountainous regions of the south western Cape.
Hope this gives you an idea of what Buchu is all about.
regards
Julie
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Q: Info about agathosma ciliaris and it's propagation? - francois, January 20, 2001
- i have recently bought Agathosma ciliaris... buchu. i would like more info about it please. can i propagate it from cuttings? how much water does it need? like is once a week in summer enough? and what medicinal uses does it have?
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r: Agathosma ciliaris - julie, February 04, 2001
- Have you tried Grassroots Natural Products - you can find them at: gnp@iafrica.com
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Q: How to sow Buchu in Europe? - Gerhard Killesreiter, February 23, 2001
- Hi!
I received my annual allocation of free
seed from the Bonaical Society
including several species of Buchu
(Agathosma).
I would like to now, if somebody can give
me advice on sowing them.
Cheers,
Gerhard
P.S.: There is something broken
with this Forum I had to switch
Javascipt off to use it.
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r: Buchu Seeds - julie, March 29, 2001
- Grassroots Natural Products should be able to help you with this - you can find them at:
gnp@iafrica.com
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Q: How can I convert my garden to fynbos? - William, July 25, 2000
- Hi. I live in Bellville and want to convert my garden to an entirely indigenous one. Ideas?
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r: Try starting in a corner - Charles Oertel, July 25, 2000
- We are doing something similar in our garden, which we inherited from people that didn't do fynbos.
Presumably your soil is well-drained and acidic. With the shrubs and things, start in a corner, where you would put in a large, showy protea or indigenous water-wise tree. Around it put ericas, restios, and ericoids like the confetti bush. Cover the bare soil between the seedlings with pine bark or pine needle mulch to stop weeds from coming up.
Expand the corner little by little as you take out alien plants. You will find that the corner needs less water (only do one deep watering a week), and as a result, the non-fynbos plants nearby will end up withering.
You should convert your lawn to Buffalo if it is Kikuyu. Buffalo is indigenous, far less invasive, needs mowing only once a year, and water wise. The cost of all these advantages is that it takes longer to get fully established. I would do the conversion in stages - kill a section of kikuyu using Roundup, and plant in Buffalo runners and/or plugs.
There is lots of information on water-wise gardening at Kirstenbosch gardens, and you can also buy fynbos seedlings there. One can buy Buffalo grass runners there too, but only at a certain time of year (most of Kirstenbosch Gardens lawns are buffalo).
Hope this helps.
Fynbos Index
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Q: What to plant at Langebaan holiday home? - Sandi L., July 25, 2000
- I'm starting from scratch.
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r: Try your local indigenous nursery - Julie Oertel, July 25, 2000
- Dear Sandi
What I would do is go to a nursery in Langebaan, and get advice about what particular fynbos species do well there. Proteas that are ideal for coastal areas are the following: Pr. cynaroides, compacta, nerifolia, repens, burchelli, coronata, grandiceps, lepidocarpodendron, longifolia. Leucodendrons that do well are Lcdn. argenteum (silver leaf), coniferum, salignum, laureolum. Leucospermums (pincushions) that do well are Lspm. mundii, reflexum. Your nursery should be able to tell you which of these do particularly well in your area, as well as other fynbos species like ericas and restios.
Good luck with your new fynbos garden.
regards
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Q: Looking for information on the Cape Floral biome - Caroline de G, July 25, 2000
- We have to make a project about (=biome). Someone told us that the vegetation of Capensis is fynbos so I was wondering if it is really like that. It's really hard to find any information about Capensis. If we do find something it's usually something about a plant but never on the Capensis region.
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r: Capensis Region? - Julie, September 07, 2000
- I would recommend contacting the Botanical Society at Kirstenbosch - I'm sure a botanist there could put Capensis into perspective for you as to where it fits in. There phone number here in Cape Town is 021-7972090 or fax 021-7972376. Good luck.
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Q: Meaning of the word 'fynbos'? - Robert C., July 25, 2000
- If the literal translation of fynbos is 'fine bush'- does this mean "good bush" or is it a reference to "fine (narrow) leaves" ?
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r: It is short for 'fine-leaved bush' - Charles Oertel, July 25, 2000
- The 'fijn' or fyn in fynbos refers to the narrow leaves. It comes from Dutch, where the word for 'good' is 'goede' and there is no synonymous relationship between 'fyn' and 'goede' as there is in English.
Of course, when used in the context of 'FineBushPeople' you are free to think of us as people of the narrow-leaved bush, or as rather fine and good BushPeople ;-)
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Q: Fynbos related career needed. - Willem, July 26, 2000
- I’m impressed by your work, site and approach. Maybe you can help me with suggestions (building on your obvious experience). Due to illness I’m being forced to change career.
I’m interested in fynbos and passionate about its conservation. Ecotourism seems to me to be one of the best ways to preserve our unique heritage. Any ideas?
(I have an electronic engineering degree with an MBA. When last seen working I was an investment analyst. At 37 I need to think about my next move.)
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Q: Cape Peninsula Fynbos a beseiged flora - Philip Stewart, July 26, 2000
- I would be most grateful if anyone could help me with the following article.
Profiling a beseiged flora: endemic and threatened plants of the Cape Peninsula, South Africa. Biodiversity and Conservation 5, 575-89 by Trinder-Smith TH, Cowling RM and linder HP 1996. Plus any other papers in that special issue of the journal.
I am presently looking for information to put a paper together so any help or pointers would be gratefully appreciated.
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Q: Eriocephalus Ericoides - Peter K., July 26, 2000
- I really would like to know a little more about this wild growing herb. Is it fynbos and is it medicinal or toxic? How can it be utilized to its maximum benefit?
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Q: Propagating Ericas - John A., July 26, 2000
- Looking for technical advice on how to best propagate ericas. All advice on the specific and surrounding subject welcome.
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Q: Fynbos seed germination due to fire or pollution - Loretta C., July 26, 2000
- Hello, does anyone know where if there is an original research report on this topic or on the fynbos seed germination?
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Q: Germination of fynbos under fire conditions - Mike B., July 26, 2000
- I am writing a short story set in 2236 involving an about-to-be-extinct fynbos variety caused by man's elimination of fire from nature. Is there a species which must have fire in order to scatter it's seed? If so can someone provide me with a name and some detail?
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r: Most of the fynbos biome needs fire - Johan, July 26, 2000
- Certain of your leucadendron and leucospermum species
of the proteas have their seed buried in the ground by
rodents. Fire causes the right stimulus for these underground seeds to germinate. Tony Rebelo explains it in his book 'Sasol Proteas'.
Kirstenbosch shop sells a packet of fynbos "smoke" to
help a wide variety of fynbos seeds other than proteacea to
germinate. Thus basically the whole fynbos biome is
reliant on fire.
The Protea Atlas Group will be able to give you more detailed info. They can be contacted at protea@nbict.nbi.ac.za.
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Q: Dried fynbos for export - Tony E., July 26, 2000
- I have access to a huge variety of dried and bleached
W.C. fynbos for export. Please advise where I could export these to?
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Q: Prionium species - James, January 16, 2001
- I was just wondering if this caudex forming rush(Juncucaceae) was native to the Fynbos regions?
Are there any possible sources for seed of this plant?
Thanks.
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r: Prionium species search - julie, February 04, 2001
- Dear James
I've looked in my books - but found nothing - you may try Silverhillseeds - you can reach them at: rachel@silverhillseeds.co.za
Good luck
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Q: How do I respond to a response? - Julie, July 28, 2000
- I want to comment on a response to a question, but whenever I press the "Post a response" button I end up posting an answer to the original question. What must I do?
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r: I am working on a solution - Charles, July 28, 2000
- Thanks for raising that liefie (Julie is the love of my life). I had wanted to avoid having discussion threads that were nested ad infinitum - so restricted the forum to topic/question/answers.
It seems I need to add a facility to comment on answers and comments. This will also allow people to agree with something (i.e. not actually post a question or answer) and thus get their email onto the forum for notification of future posts.
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Q: Permits laws etc in RSA - Hilda B, October 05, 2000
- What are the laws and requirements for selling, transporting, exporting of Proteas as well as fynbos?
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r: RSA Export Laws - julie, October 06, 2000
- Dear Hilda
I would suggest contacting SAPPEX (SA Protea Producers & Exporters Asscn). You can find them at: sappex@itec.co.za
Hope this helps.
regards Julie
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r: Transporting Fynbos - julie, October 10, 2000
- Dear Hilda
I only answered part of your query. You need to contact Nature Conservation with a list of species you'd be cutting and tranporting and they will isssue you with a permit for these plants.
regards
Julie
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Q: protea propagation from cuttings - PAUL WITTE, November 23, 2000
- I would be very gratefull if some one could give me some information about the propagation of proteas from cuttings:
Which branches must I cut (one year or two years)
When is the wright time to root cuttings
Which medium must I use
Thanks,
PAUL
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r: Growing from cuttings - julie, December 08, 2000
- Dear Paul
Growing proteas from cuttings is usually very successful and thus rewarding.
Cuttings should be taken from semi-hardened plant material - usually the new growth from the last growing season (either autumn or spring) which has hardened off for a few months. Spring shoots would be ready for cutting late summer/early autumn and autumn shoots late winter/early spring. Best time to harvest protea cuttings seems to be early autumn before the cooler winter months.
The most successful cuttings are by far from the semi-hardened side shoots which come from just below a forming bud or flower.
Cuttings shoul be taken in the early morning when it is cool & moist and the cut material should be kept fully hydrated - placed in a plastic bag and sprayed with water. They should only be kept for a few hours before treatment and planting in a cool place aaway from direct sunlight.
The leaves on the bottom 2/3 of stem should be carefully removed - and when planted, should be planted to 1/3 of total length. Treating cuttings with a plant hormone increases the chances of success. These you should be able to find at your nursery.
You should plant them in a mix of 2 parts coarse washed river sand to one part good quality peat moss.
The cuttings will strike most readily in a warm, moist environment - mist watering system works well.
Adequate ventilation around the plant is also important.
Also to prevent fungal infections the cuttings shoul be given a drenching with with a general purpose fungicide like Captan or Benlate before being planted.
Hope this helps and good luck.
regards
Julie
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Q: bests soil type for betulina cultivation - Gordon, March 18, 2002
- at alt.1000m what soil type do betulina thrive in,how often,when and how much to irrigate the planted orchide
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